Showing posts with label Collection. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Collection. Show all posts

Saturday, July 2, 2011


Barbour x To Ki To.  Is there really anything more to say?

Well, no. But humor me: Usually I'm pretty persnickety about covering things I've never seen in person, but there are some exceptions, and this collaboration is always one of them. Barbour and Japanese designer Tokihito both have impeccable track records and together they've produced an impressive collection for several seasons now.  The functional details and architectural nature of the collaboration give way to a well executed, sophisticated blend of modern and traditional, putting each piece in a category of Caborn-like artistry. Not a bad category to be in.

I'm particularly fond of the half placket front closures and oversized hoods featured this season. Beautiful yet useful as can be – not a bad choice for urbanites who struggle to find outerwear that does it's job without making one look like a banker or detracting from what's beneath.  If anything, a Barbour x To Ki To will likely up-stage anything else you could possibly be wearing, but that's really not a something I'd consider a problem. 

The entire collection is on pre-order at Number Six, where you will also find more images and details of each piece. Sincere apologies in advance for any brain or heart spasms that might result.  -  M

// Barbour x To Ki To at Number Six

Thursday, June 30, 2011


Previous to this year, I was not extremely familiar with Nudie, a Swedish label founded in 2001. I knew the brand for for it's excellent reputation in men's denim, perpetuated by a loyal and vocal male customer base, and it's not so great reputation for rather amateurish apparel.  Fast forward to last month when I had the pleasure of visiting the Nudie Showroom in Chelsea, an experience that left me thoroughly impressed by Nudie's mature, well-rounded, and beautifully made A/W '11 collection.

Comprised of three distinct lines differentiated by palette and fabrics, the collection is focused around a solid set of basics, with some distinctive, yet subdued pieces peppered throughout. The brighter more transitional side of the collection, in cottons and japanese linens, plays nicely with the heavier knits and denims and all is tied together with a nod to workwear inspired silouhettes.

Laid out across racks and tables, the collection's balance of textures, weights and materials made the showroom feel a bit like closet of a well groomed musician or designer: built carefully over time, with attention to quality and comfort, and a touch of playfulness, in the form of a beautiful leather bomber, from the crazier days.

I was particularly struck by the shirting, featured here. For me, the stand out pieces were those in Japanese fabrics as well as the amazing heavy wash (read: stone washed!) denim button down (pictured above). Honestly, it's so beautiful and soft in person, it made me realize a new-found appreciation for a once forgotten 90's treatment.

All in all, Nudie has stepped up their game with this thoughtfully considered, well made collection that lives up to their reputation in the denim category. Nudie is clearly in a process of reinvention, and I'm excited to see how it evolves in the coming seasons. Special thanks to goes to Ruari Mahon for making the showroom visit a complete joy, and Johnny Ridley for lending me his camera and editing skills. - M 


Tuesday, April 5, 2011


A few weeks ago Japanese brand Nonnative dropped this beautifully styled S/S collection during a stretch when I was too busy to write anything. Sure, four weeks after the fact seems a bit late but when my browser tells me I've visited a site over 40 times in two weeks I generally take it as a sign and so here we are.

This season Nonnative remains consistent with its 'urban outdoors-man' aesthetic, but airs more heavily on the urban side of the equation, a departure from the rugged, 'artisty mountaineer' theme presented for F/W.  This time around they've designed an impressive range of casual pieces for a more relaxed, deconstructed silhouette. While there are a few formal elements thrown in, everything is thoroughly wearable and cast in a palate that balances washed out pastels, which are so popular this season, with darker, richer tones. I'm especially a fan of the highly pigmented purple accents that I suspect, and hope, we'll see pop up again in the fall.

The styling - some of the best this season - shows off the versatility of the collection; drawing upon the strengths of the accessories and footwear which are the true heroes here. Thanks to Nonnative's informative and pretty website, I've been able to pair detail shots with pulls from the lookbooks, both spring and summer.

Looking at it all now, I realize I'll actually be sad to have to publish anything after this as its probably the best looking post I've written here - easy when the pieces and presentation are so flawlessly executed.  Certainly deserving of applause all around. It's a tough act to follow, but I look forward to see how they plan to top it next season. - M


Friday, March 4, 2011


I'm not big on lookbook posting, but this collection is just too notable to pass up.  The L.B.M 1911 line comes from Italian tailoring house, Lubiam.  The company has been around since - surprise! - 1911, and has garnered a reputation for challenging the Italian norms. Even so, this collection takes on a more modern and casual approach than their traditional garb, (although I'd argue Lubiam suiting, especially in the way of jackets, tends to have a distinctly more relaxed silhouette). 

Sartorially Inclined is spot on in his review, framing the collection as the 'definition of dressed down tailoring', and noting the American heritage inspired styling, despite the Italian aversion to the trend.   The sport coats, bearing hints of deconstruction, are the grand centerpieces here, but those accessories are nothing to scoff at. Lubiam did good by providing high res images – it's the only way to fully appreciate the level of detail and quality materials that went into this collection. Fastidious. Spectacular.

On a personal note, a solid Italian x American inspired collection is one I've been seeking out and I'm so pleased to see the juxtoposition executed with such mastery here.  Also, I'm just thrilled to see something truly fresh come out of Italy, and equally thrilled to see it hailed in the states for its quality and worksmaship. Yes, good craftsmanship actually occurs outside of these 50 states; indeed, its been going on for quite some time now, (read: for centuries). Don't get me wrong, I am a 110% backer of American made pride; I practice and preach it flagrantly, but it's not the only pride I preach. Viva la tradizione Italiana. And viva L.BM. 1911 for putting together a truly beautiful and inspired collection. - M

(Lookbook and details after the jump.)

Friday, December 17, 2010


Yes, this outerwear centered collection promises to be quality –for when has Freemans ever done us wrong?– but it's the look book that has left be at a loss for words.  Photographed by Tim Barber, of Urban Outfitters and Nike fame, it's all satire meets stereotype and I love it. What better way to ring in the holiday than an Abraham Lincoln butcher apron? I'm not gonna lie, I kind of want a poster. Of every single one of these. More below with items for purchase at - M

Tuesday, October 26, 2010


I've become enamored of Rby45rpm over the years and this collection is only increasing that trend. After 10 years, they're masters of marrying so many influences without seeming schizophrenic or overly trendy. Raw textures, beautifully dyed textiles, tailored and unstructured silhouettes, asian and western details - it's all expertly controlled, harmonious, simple.  The look-books are also impressively beautiful in and of themselves and this one is no exception.  The company recently celebrated their 10 year anniversary and I can't think of a brand with a more original and timeless aesthetic.  See more below the jump and at their online shop. - M

Thursday, October 7, 2010


Another fantastic video by the producer/director duo, Tom Rand and Brennan Stasiewicz. You might know them from the craftsmanship video series over at The Scout. This time they take us backstage for the Gant by Michael Bastian presentation in NYC. The video captured the whimsical, charming, and I'd say, best side of the collection, which is quickly shaping up to be seminal one for Gant.

The actual presentation itself took on a decidedly more classic, cinematic feel than the locker room inspired Fall collection, but I still don't think the styling quite did the collection justice.  I've been more impressed by actual pieces up-close-and-personal than I was upon being introduced through the presentation.  Most successful were the ensembles that revolved around a structured piece, like the shawl collar jacket + bow tie get up (below), versus this dandy-meets-jock-meets-JFK, Jr get up, which fell short in my eyes.

Still, I am very impressed by the mature progression that took place over just one season, so I implore you Mr. Bastian to keep evolving past the bath sandal. - M

Shirt. Found.
F/W 2010  <--- versus --->  S/S 2011

More shots of the S/S collection after the jump.