Showing posts with label Craftsmanship. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Craftsmanship. Show all posts

Wednesday, November 16, 2011

SPECIAL EDITION | THE SIG OTHER x GRAHAM WITHERS Pt. II


In the introductory post of this two part series I highlighted the finished product of my collaboration with Graham Withers and, as promised, in part two we'll take a look into the tie making process.

The ties being sold at Graham Withers are hand crafted in NYC by a legend of the tie making circuit who's been in the industry for 40 years and makes ties for the likes of Thom Browne. He's such a secret weapon that when asked to reveal his identity, Paul would only disclose that the craftsman operates out of Chelsea. He hand stitches everything save the slip stitch -  that runs the length of the back of a tie - which is sewn by a Liba machine, (Paul adds "the quality of the Liba machine stitch vs handmade slip stitch is negligible).

The fabric: a worsted English wool tartan in a deep navy and russet stripe. The tipping is 100% cashmere


Before Paul and Dave handed over manufacturing to their best kept secret, they handmade everything themselves at the factory that is the home base for Paul's family business in Long Island City. They're entirely self taught and a few weeks ago, I rode out the factory with them to document their tag team process as they hand made a Zupan tie from start to finish.

Cutting the wool from the pattern.
Paul placing the tipping at the front end of the tie.
Stitching the tipping in place
Paul sews the two ends of the tie together in the workshop at his family's factory
The sewing machine they use was once owned by a handy man who worked with the family business
The front and the back of the tie are joined
Sewing in the tipping
With the point complete, the tie begins to take shape.
Paul (seated) and Dave together in the workshop
Adding the core of the tie and folding the edges in.
The skinny end of the tie is pinned into place
The (nearly) finished product
At this stage the slip stitch is hand sewn, which takes about an hour. The entire process took about two hours, and it was an incredible experience to watch these work together and this product come to life.  See the full range of photos from the day over at my Flickr. Huge thanks to both Paul and Dave for letting me be a fly on the wall while they work their magic. - M

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Tuesday, February 1, 2011

Q & A | SYMMETRY GOODS S/S 2011


Today is a fantastic day, not least of all because the Symmetry Goods much anticipated S/S collection is finally available online.  Needless to say, I'm genuinely thrilled to write this post – I've been admiring this label for it's ethos, quality and spirit for quite some time now.

Symmetry Goods was founded in 2010 by LA based husband and wife team, Ted Byrnes and Gena Tuso. To read about their beginnings and their first collection, check out the great post by Brad of Commerce With A Conscience, whom I credit with introducing me to the brand in the first place.  In December I had the great pleasure of purchasing a piece for myself and I have yet to take it off, so I'm a first hand believer: Symmetry is the real deal.

I recently reached out to Ted with questions about the company and was impressed by his responses regarding their ethic, evolution and approach, so without further fanfare, check out the Q &A below and head on over to the shop to scope out the goods.  - M

Silverstone Scarf


The Sig Other: Your pieces are definitely modern but have a kind of timeless, traditional edge to them, do you mean to strike that balance? 
Ted Byrnes: Interesting question. We, like a lot of folks, respond to things that are timeless in aesthetic, but also things that solve problems in the way that design can. 
The brand was launched with the idea that we could make accessories 'function' better. It all started with the scarf - the idea that the wearer can customize the piece each time they wear it, pretty dramatically, and that the piece will stay put. It was an aesthetic thing as much as it was a practical one. The bulk of the aesthetic stuff lies in the manufacturing; i.e., what fabrics we decide to use, the hardware, color of the grommets, etc. I think the traditional element is that our collection really is all made by hand.

How does that approach translate into this collection?
Each piece is cut and sewn by one person. The leather to back the grommets is stamped out by one person, the grommets are put in one by one by the same person, and its usually me that ends up assembling the hardware I think folks can tell when something is really handmade. That's important to us. The idea of these pieces is that you'll have and wear them forever, and we want people to feel that. The fabric selection, especially for our debut season with the Woolrich fabrics definitely had a traditional feel; the fabrics lend themselves to that.

Belt w/ Hook
I love the hooks that were made for the spring season. Can you talk about what inspired them? And how they were made?
They are actually pretty common little hooks that usually have applications in leather goods We liked how super functional they look, and how the look with leather specifically, especially with the Dixon which turns into a tote bag. Kind of a play, (and very much a literal view), of hardware. They are cast here in the States. We also had some Pelican hooks hand cast for the small leather goods, and changed the scope and scale of them to make them much smaller than they usually tend to be.

What is your philosophy surrounding quality?
It's all about quality. I would say that's the benchmark of the brand. Working with like-minded people/companies that make things that last is literally of the utmost importance to us. We don't skimp on anything, and we take this very seriously.  Producing goods in this day and age you have to be very careful, which is why we either get everything custom-made or from very good sources.  
This is also how we live our lives just in general; we don't eat fast food, we shop very ethically and eat artisinally as much as humanly possible; we eat/drink very consciously, we support brands/people doing good and ethical stuff, always the small guy first. Our whole viewpoint of life is quality over quantity, and the business is really just an extension of that. 

The American design and craft scene is in a really exciting spot right now. As a part of it, what are your impressions?
I think it's awesome. the breadth of talent/brands/folks doing quality work is great - from Timo Weiland to Corter Leather and everyone in between. I think we are all trying to keep some tradition alive and also give America back some of its manufacturing. Some folks refer to it as a trend, we don't think its a trend -  it's consumers buying quality made goods made by people who love what they do and support ethical manufacturing.  Sure, some aspects of it might fall away, but the way that people are viewing the way that they buy/use things is changing, and for the better.

Cardew Kerchief


Any collaborations we should look out for, (fingers crossed!)?
yes, we are doing a collaboration with Layerxlayer here at some point soon. Really, really looking forward to it. We see a lot of ourselves in them in many ways and I think vice versa. Can't say enough good stuff about them and what they do. There may or may not be a couple other things in the works for this year that are very exciting. More on that as it develops!

Looking into the future, how do you see Symmetry line evolving?
In terms of evolution, we will stay with accessories, I don't see us moving into RTW at all. What we are aiming towards for next fall is having a collection where everything works together, in one capacity. There will be a very key hardware element that will transform into a variety of things and serve a lot of functions within the collection. We are incredibly excited about it. We can't wait for people to see it. 
_______________
**Editor's note**
If you're a lady, or buying for a lady, it's imperative that you check out the Dixon scarf (right) that doubles as a bag. I know, brilliant.
Finally, I want to give a huge thank you to Ted for taking the time to answer these Q's and for Gena for creating another inspired line.
Can't wait to see where Symmetry goes in 2011! 

Tuesday, October 26, 2010

YES, PLEASE | RBY45RPM WINTER LOOK-BOOK



I've become enamored of Rby45rpm over the years and this collection is only increasing that trend. After 10 years, they're masters of marrying so many influences without seeming schizophrenic or overly trendy. Raw textures, beautifully dyed textiles, tailored and unstructured silhouettes, asian and western details - it's all expertly controlled, harmonious, simple.  The look-books are also impressively beautiful in and of themselves and this one is no exception.  The company recently celebrated their 10 year anniversary and I can't think of a brand with a more original and timeless aesthetic.  See more below the jump and at their online shop. - M

Monday, September 13, 2010

VIDEO | VIBERG BOOT


I recently stumbled upon this video about the Viberg Boot company produced by Inventory Magazine's "Inventory Films". It is about a year old so I'm surprised I haven't seen more coverage, but, as one would expect from Inventory, it is still a beautifully shot piece about a company with an authentic past.  Inventory's description does a fine job framing up the company:
"Nestled in the heart of downtown Victoria, B.C. is Viberg Boot. Home to three generations of master craftsmen, the Viberg tradition involves making the best quality leather boots available. While they've traditionally made footwear for logging and labouring, the family owned & operated company is now finding success in lifestyle markets halfway around the world in Japan, Hong Kong, Taiwan and the UK. 
Like Orvis, Carhartt and even L.L Bean, Viberg is riding the wave of the 'American Trad' resurgence while never jeopardizing functionality; going so far as highlighting an entire line of boots under the title "Safety Boots".  At a time when Heritage stories are often equal parts romanticized fiction and approximations of truth, I'm finding that down and dirty authenticity is rare, so I applaud Viberg for their complete lack of pretense.

Notable models in their current range include The Packer, and The Foreman (pictured below) both of which could accommodate a pair of office slacks for those lucky few who need to seamlessly transition between the boardroom and the hunting lodge.

Be sure to check out both Inventory Magazine and the Viberg brand after checking out the video.  - M


The Packer


The Foreman


Saturday, September 4, 2010

VIDEO | OXXFORD CLOTHES


"If images of your father and grandfather wearing beautifully tailored, but slightly old-fashioned suits from this Chicago-based company is the only lasting memory you have of the 91-year-old brand, it’s time to take a second look. The new Oxxford suits feature lighter super wool and cashmere fabrics, softer construction, and a sexier shape that includes smaller lapels, higher armholes, and leaner, flat-front slacks." - via Robb Report