Showing posts with label Graham Withers. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Graham Withers. Show all posts

Wednesday, November 16, 2011

SPECIAL EDITION | THE SIG OTHER x GRAHAM WITHERS Pt. II


In the introductory post of this two part series I highlighted the finished product of my collaboration with Graham Withers and, as promised, in part two we'll take a look into the tie making process.

The ties being sold at Graham Withers are hand crafted in NYC by a legend of the tie making circuit who's been in the industry for 40 years and makes ties for the likes of Thom Browne. He's such a secret weapon that when asked to reveal his identity, Paul would only disclose that the craftsman operates out of Chelsea. He hand stitches everything save the slip stitch -  that runs the length of the back of a tie - which is sewn by a Liba machine, (Paul adds "the quality of the Liba machine stitch vs handmade slip stitch is negligible).

The fabric: a worsted English wool tartan in a deep navy and russet stripe. The tipping is 100% cashmere


Before Paul and Dave handed over manufacturing to their best kept secret, they handmade everything themselves at the factory that is the home base for Paul's family business in Long Island City. They're entirely self taught and a few weeks ago, I rode out the factory with them to document their tag team process as they hand made a Zupan tie from start to finish.

Cutting the wool from the pattern.
Paul placing the tipping at the front end of the tie.
Stitching the tipping in place
Paul sews the two ends of the tie together in the workshop at his family's factory
The sewing machine they use was once owned by a handy man who worked with the family business
The front and the back of the tie are joined
Sewing in the tipping
With the point complete, the tie begins to take shape.
Paul (seated) and Dave together in the workshop
Adding the core of the tie and folding the edges in.
The skinny end of the tie is pinned into place
The (nearly) finished product
At this stage the slip stitch is hand sewn, which takes about an hour. The entire process took about two hours, and it was an incredible experience to watch these work together and this product come to life.  See the full range of photos from the day over at my Flickr. Huge thanks to both Paul and Dave for letting me be a fly on the wall while they work their magic. - M

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Monday, September 5, 2011

SPECIAL EDITION | FOR THE NEW PROFESSIONALS

Tee, Brixton // Shirt, Gitman Vintage // Blazer, Acne // Belt, Epaulet // Bag, Archival //
Jeans, Levi's Made & Crafted // Shoes, Tretorn // Hat, Supreme

I recently took a job with Svpply, a startup in NYC.  I've written about Svpply previously - it's a fantastic company filled with fantastic people. Last week, one of our co-founders, Zach Klein, pointed me to this question on Quora: "What can a man wear in Silicon Valley business circles to be impeccably dressed with out being overly formal?"

While I've never been to Silicon Valley, the underlying anxiety here is something that I've seen nag at men in the creative fields everywhere.  In six years, I've gone from small ad shop, to digital strategy firm, to start-up, all of them companies founded one way or another on the idea of doing something unprecedented. The normal sartorial rules of the workplace are irrelevant here, so what's a guy to do when there's no suit and tie to fall back on?  Taking from my experience of working with whole cast of entrepreneurs/creatives/internet-makers, here are a few things I'd suggest:

1. Fit, Quality, Comfort...and Utility

First of all, no matter what, dressing well is built around fit, quality comfort and (in this case) utility. It is a complete waste of money to buy things that do not fit you, that are not made well that are uncomfortable or serve no functional purpose. Do not buy anything that does not check these boxes, you will regret it. (Also, functional does not mean sports/workout gear. Mesh shorts, like sweat bands, are only considered functional in the gym).

2. Invest (really invest) in a bag.
This is the most important item you own - you use it every single day so it needs to be as useful and durable as possible. Beware the messenger bag. They can be sloppy and bad for your back. Go with a tote or an informal briefcase.  A good backpack is completely acceptable as long as you cannot imagine a high school kid wearing it.
 

Suggestions: J.W. Hulme, Archival (above), Filson, Kelty, Skinny Vinny, Billy Kirk, Wm. J Mills & Co

3. Three pairs of shoes will go a long, long way.
One pair canvas, one pair leather and one pair boots. Formal shoes aren't a must, but no matter what, each pair should look as good with jeans and a T-shirt as they do with chinos and a blazer.

Canvas: Tretorn (above), Converse, Zuriick, Vans // Leather: Epaulet, Alden, Common Projects // Boots: Wolverine, Red Wing, L.L Bean

4. One blazer. Uno. Ichi. Eins.
For those rarest of occasions, or if you feel like being spiffy, just one will do. Navy or grey but I advise against black as it can be too formal. I'd say an unstructured blazer (like above) will get you far.

Suggestions: Oliver Spencer, Gant, J.Crew, Steven Alan, General Assembly, Acne (above)

5. Graduate from (just) T-shirts.
Basic tees are important. About ten plain shirts in a combination of black, white and gray should do it. On top of that, it is ok to keep your old ones with sports teams or bands on them - that's charming and cool in a kind of Street way, but do supplement with about five button downs.  I suggest a range - a couple solids, a couple patterns, in varying weights and at least one white.

Suggestions: Gant, Gitman Brothers Vintage, WWM, Thom Browne, Ralph Lauren

6. Half of your pants collection should be exceptionally high quality.

Pants get the biggest beating. Half of them should be able to last through the apocalypse and fit slim (i.e. do not puddle around your ankles or sag in the butt). Pants that look good and last for years are worth every penny. Plus, everyone loves a guy in five year old jeans. Means he's crafty and dedicated.

Denim: Tellason, Raleigh, APC, Levi's (above), Nudie, Rogue Territory // Non-Denim: Bonobos, Epaulet, Outlier, Dockers

7.  Hang on to your North Face, but have at least two other options.

In my experience entrepreneurs tend to be outdoors-men, (aspiring or otherwise), so waterproof/outdoorsy jackets are fine and necessary.  That said, make sure you have others that are not made for mountain scaling as you do not need to scale mountains while in the office.

Outdoorsy: for when you need to be all active outside.  Like this one.
Light jacket: not denim and can fit a sweater under it. Like this one.
Heavy jacket: should keep you warm. I suggest wool. Like this one or this one.

    8. Rule of four layers
    Thinking in layers helps you understand how many pieces you need/want. The idea is you need (roughly) one layer for Summer, two for Spring, three for Fall, four for Winter.  Like so:
    One Shirt (Tee or button down) = Summer
    Tee + (Button down or jacket) = Spring
    Tee + Button down + (Jacket or Sweater) = Fall
    Tee + Button down + Sweater + Jacket  =  Winter
    With ten basic tees, five button downs, three or four sweaters and three jackets you can start to see how your options multiply. (Bonus points if you write a program that will create those combinations for you).

    Tips on sweaters: go with merino wool, cashmere, cotton or a blend.  No synthetics - they make you sweaty and don't actually keep you warm. I like ones like this and this.  For casual, hoodies are good perfectly acceptable. Like this one.


    9. Ties
    Not a must, but they make it easy to look slightly more dressed up and they're just fun. I'm actually partial to the tie and sneaker look, these days.

    Suggestions: Graham Withers, The Hill-Side, The Windmill Club, Pierrepont Hicks, Alexander Olch

    10. "Every day, wear something that says something about who you are"- Put This On
    Most importantly, have something that lends character and that you love wearing. Examples I know and love include big watches, bow ties, blue hoodies, red belts, and bad ass hats. Whatever it is, find that thing, big or small, and wear the hell out of it. The last thing we need is a sea of 'creative professional' clones wandering the earth. Plus, when you get all famous for building the internet, we've got to have something endearing make fun of you for.

    **Editor's note**
    This post is inspired entirely by the gentlemen I've had the great pleasure of working with.  They're my friends and comrades and I respect them deeply no matter what they wear. They could all show up
    to work in garbage bags and I'd still congratulate them on being the talented men that they are. And that's the truth.

    Wednesday, March 16, 2011

    YES PLEASE | GRAHAM WITHERS S/S NECKWEAR


    The fellas at Graham Withers Clothing Co. impress yet again with this new line of neckwear, bow ties included, for spring and summer.  As you would expect from Graham Withers, the designs are clean and classic, letting the top notch fabrics shine through unencumbered.  This line is in a seasonally appropriate range of linens, cottons, light flannel, with seersucker making a quick cameo as well. There's a nice balance of patterns and colorways this time too, and all sourced sourced primarily from the US. Each piece is hand made here in NYC, with the (joking) exception of one, which I challenge you to find in the delightfully cheeky product descriptions. This isn't the whole story though, be on the lookout for some pocket squares and a look book in the coming weeks. If this collection is any indication, we're in for a treat. - M

    Graham Withers Chesterfield Tie

    Graham Withers Kingsley Tie
    Graham Withers Boat Keeper Bow Tie (front side)
    Graham Withers Boat Keeper Bow Tie (reverse side)
    Graham Withers Mongibello Seersucker Tie
    Graham Withers DG Bow Tie