SPECIAL EDITION | FOR THE NEW PROFESSIONALS

Tee, Brixton // Shirt, Gitman Vintage // Blazer, Acne // Belt, Epaulet // Bag, Archival //
Jeans, Levi's Made & Crafted // Shoes, Tretorn // Hat, Supreme

I recently took a job with Svpply, a startup in NYC.  I've written about Svpply previously - it's a fantastic company filled with fantastic people. Last week, one of our co-founders, Zach Klein, pointed me to this question on Quora: "What can a man wear in Silicon Valley business circles to be impeccably dressed with out being overly formal?"

While I've never been to Silicon Valley, the underlying anxiety here is something that I've seen nag at men in the creative fields everywhere.  In six years, I've gone from small ad shop, to digital strategy firm, to start-up, all of them companies founded one way or another on the idea of doing something unprecedented. The normal sartorial rules of the workplace are irrelevant here, so what's a guy to do when there's no suit and tie to fall back on?  Taking from my experience of working with whole cast of entrepreneurs/creatives/internet-makers, here are a few things I'd suggest:

1. Fit, Quality, Comfort...and Utility
First of all, no matter what, dressing well is built around fit, quality comfort and (in this case) utility. It is a complete waste of money to buy things that do not fit you, that are not made well that are uncomfortable or serve no functional purpose. Do not buy anything that does not check these boxes, you will regret it. (Also, functional does not mean sports/workout gear. Mesh shorts, like sweat bands, are only considered functional in the gym).

2. Invest (really invest) in a bag.
This is the most important item you own - you use it every single day so it needs to be as useful and durable as possible. Beware the messenger bag. They can be sloppy and bad for your back. Go with a tote or an informal briefcase.  A good backpack is completely acceptable as long as you cannot imagine a high school kid wearing it.
 
Suggestions: J.W. Hulme, Archival (above), Filson, Kelty, Skinny Vinny, Billy Kirk, Wm. J Mills & Co

3. Three pairs of shoes will go a long, long way.
One pair canvas, one pair leather and one pair boots. Formal shoes aren't a must, but no matter what, each pair should look as good with jeans and a T-shirt as they do with chinos and a blazer.

Canvas: Tretorn (above), Converse, Zuriick, Vans // Leather: Epaulet, Alden, Common Projects // Boots: Wolverine, Red Wing, L.L Bean

4. One blazer. Uno. Ichi. Eins.
For those rarest of occasions, or if you feel like being spiffy, just one will do. Navy or grey but I advise against black as it can be too formal. I'd say an unstructured blazer (like above) will get you far.

Suggestions: Oliver Spencer, Gant, J.Crew, Steven Alan, General Assembly, Acne (above)

5. Graduate from (just) T-shirts.
Basic tees are important. About ten plain shirts in a combination of black, white and gray should do it. On top of that, it is ok to keep your old ones with sports teams or bands on them - that's charming and cool in a kind of Street way, but do supplement with about five button downs.  I suggest a range - a couple solids, a couple patterns, in varying weights and at least one white.

Suggestions: Gant, Gitman Brothers Vintage, WWM, Thom Browne, Ralph Lauren

6. Half of your pants collection should be exceptionally high quality.
Pants get the biggest beating. Half of them should be able to last through the apocalypse and fit slim (i.e. do not puddle around your ankles or sag in the butt). Pants that look good and last for years are worth every penny. Plus, everyone loves a guy in five year old jeans. Means he's crafty and dedicated.

Denim: Tellason, Raleigh, APC, Levi's (above), Nudie, Rogue Territory // Non-Denim: Bonobos, Epaulet, Outlier, Dockers

7.  Hang on to your North Face, but have at least two other options.
In my experience entrepreneurs tend to be outdoors-men, (aspiring or otherwise), so waterproof/outdoorsy jackets are fine and necessary.  That said, make sure you have others that are not made for mountain scaling as you do not need to scale mountains while in the office.

Outdoorsy: for when you need to be all active outside.  Like this one.
Light jacket: not denim and can fit a sweater under it. Like this one.
Heavy jacket: should keep you warm. I suggest wool. Like this one or this one.

8. Rule of four layers
Thinking in layers helps you understand how many pieces you need/want. The idea is you need (roughly) one layer for Summer, two for Spring, three for Fall, four for Winter.  Like so:

One Shirt (Tee or button down) = Summer
Tee + (Button down or jacket) = Spring
Tee + Button down + (Jacket or Sweater) = Fall
Tee + Button down + Sweater + Jacket  =  Winter

With ten basic tees, five button downs, three or four sweaters and three jackets you can start to see how your options multiply. (Bonus points if you write a program that will create those combinations for you).

Tips on sweaters: go with merino wool, cashmere, cotton or a blend.  No synthetics - they make you sweaty and don't actually keep you warm. I like ones like this and this.  For casual, hoodies are good perfectly acceptable. Like this one.

9. Ties
Not a must, but they make it easy to look slightly more dressed up and they're just fun. I'm actually partial to the tie and sneaker look, these days.

Suggestions: Graham Withers, The Hill-Side, The Windmill Club, Pierrepont Hicks, Alexander Olch

10. "Every day, wear something that says something about who you are"- Put This On
Most importantly, have something that lends character and that you love wearing. Examples I know and love include big watches, bow ties, blue hoodies, red belts, and bad ass hats. Whatever it is, find that thing, big or small, and wear the hell out of it. The last thing we need is a sea of 'creative professional' clones wandering the earth. Plus, when you get all famous for building the internet, we've got to have something endearing make fun of you for.

**Editor's note**
This post is inspired entirely by the gentlemen I've had the great pleasure of working with.  They're my friends and comrades and I respect them deeply no matter what they wear. They could all show up to work in garbage bags and I'd still congratulate them on being the talented men that they are. And that's the truth.

YES, PLEASE | EPAULET SHIRTING

Epaulet Club Collar Shirt in Oxford Blue

So, yesterday morning I woke up and realized with horror that I'd never written a proper post about Epaulet and resolved to remedy the situation ASAP. Ideally, I'd write about some super epic and phenomenal Epaulet item, but honestly everything they do fits that bill. I've been led to believe this after about four years of having my socks wow-ed off by everything they do.

I'm fortunate that the proprietors, Mike & Adele, opened the first Epaulet location in 2008 just blocks from my apartment as it's afforded me the great pleasure of watching the shop and line grow over time. Shirting was their first in-house offering and it is as impressive today as on day one, if not more so. I thought it fitting, then, that their first staple item should be the topic for this first dedicated post.
 

Epaulet Club Collar Shirt

This season they've introduced some gutsier fabrics, including a mashup tartan number (below), that I'm very fond of. Not to worry though, the classics are all still accounted for, including some beautifully appointed club collars (above) and even a couple of french cuff options. As their website will tell you, all Epaulet shirts are hand crafted in small batches here in the US of A with painstaking attention to detail. I can vouch for the resulting quality as I've owned three.

Epaulet Tartan Mashup Shirt

More styles are below the jump, and each photo clicks through to Epaulet's storefront where you'll notice the details on each shirt are incredibly thorough. While you're there, make sure to take stock of the full range of Epaulet goods, as the line now includes the best pants made anywhere and certainly in NYC (hands down), knits, neck wear, and collaborations with Alden, Gitman Brothers, and Thorogood. If you're in the city, a visit to one of the Epaulet boutiques - in Brooklyn or Manhattan - is a must. Whatever you purchase or whichever store you visit, there is a 100% possibility that Epaulet is sure to impress. - M

IN CONTEXT | MR. HARE MAILER LOAFER

You'll notice that the image above contains ample negative space and one bombastic pair of shoes. Mind you, I know these aren't for everyone and certainly intimidate most, but they also promise to be the crowning sartorial glory of any man's shoe collection should he be ballsy enough to take the leap. These loafers just have that much gravitas.

This phenomenon is not unusual for Mr. Hare shoes. The company began as the mission of one man - yes, Mr. Hare - to create footwear that he, simply, liked. Nearly three years and four collections later, he's created a fleet of shoes, boots and loafers that a great many like, if not revere. Mr. Hare's offerings are distinct in almost every way that counts - in silhouette, manufacturing and materials making them some of the more unique pieces on the market. These are no exception.

The Mailer loafer upper and tassels - which appear more substantial than most - are made with Vacchetta leather, an untreated animal rawhide that is traditionally used for the trim of luggage and bags. Vachetta is susceptible to sunlight, which means care is important, but also that the shoe will darken in shade over time, creating a natural patina.  The lasts for the shoes - those old-timey looking wooden shoe molds - are crafted in Northampton, England and then sent to Italy where the shoe is then constructed over the last.

Available in Tan, Navy and Black they retail for a cool £405, or approximately $656 depending on the exchange. The Tan version, featured here, are a solid option for Spring if you want to class things up a bit; one that will surely hold its own amidst this, the season of ornate footwear, (read: an increasingly aggressive double monk takeover).

To purchase or for more info you can contact Mr. Hare directly by reaching out to the spectacularly helpful James Hayes [email]. For more about Mr. Hare check out this excellent interview with the man himself on Style Salvage. Cheers and Happy loafering. - M

[IN CONTEXT]

Mr. Hare Mailer Loafer + Dressy Spring Essentials

Mr. Hare Mailer Loafer
Seven Alan Spring Peak Lapel Blazer
Epaulet Tapered Rudy Trouser
Folk Clothing Buckley Belt
Ines Melain Solid Sport Shirt
Mismo Full Grain Canvas Carry-all
Stowa Marine Automatic Timepiece
Tom Ford Single Man Glasses

Previously [In Context]  :
Left Field NYC Ivy Crew Sweater
Nike Air Royal Mid QS 'Workboot' Sneaker

A WEEK'S SVPPLY | No. 03: FEB 19 - FEB 25

Things that caught my eye this week, (from left to right):

1. Eland Pants, Wood Wood
   I had the pleasure of checking these pants out last time I was in Denmark and can report that they're incredibly soft, well made and come in a ton of colors. I'll admit they're a unique fit - very generous up top and tapered at the ankles - but I find it refreshing; somehow they just work.
2. Hunting Overshirt, YMC
   Indigo dyed cotton with tan leather elbow patches. Plus contrast buttons of any kind really get me, especially when fully buttoned, and this shirt does it particularly well.
3. Tote, Chester Wallace
   Hand made in Portland by a dude. Apparently, the inspiration for this bag was to have something big enough to carry two six packs.  I'm sure it does that very well, but it also just looks mighty fine.  These come in a huge amount of colorways, too, makes me want four.
4. Herringbone Necktie, Ernest Alexander
   There's everything to love about a good herringbone/plaid combo.  Especially if it's hand made in NYC, which this one is.
5. Crosby Shoe, Common People
   Most shoes of this ilk can come off as kind of clunky, but these manage to be elegant. They look like they could be the best spring shoe ever and comfy as slippers.  Complete steal, at about $100/£85.
6. MacBook Pro Sleeve, Charbonize
   Obligatory nod to the most talked about product this week. This is an Etsy find unearthed by my coworker Mara. It's wool, leather and can be monogrammed. $67 is a better price than whatever Jake Spade nonsense most people are buying.
7. MK II Vantage Watch for Epaulet
   This came out a month ago, but somehow I just found it last week. MKII is a Swiss watch manufacturer that made this especially for Epaulet in BK/LES. It's a 'real' watch (read: not just a pretty Timex) so it's pricey, but very reasonable given other watches of its kind.
8. Shopper Tote, Common Projects
   Just a simple leather tote for spring. It's got well situated pockets inside, too. Made in Italy, found via Selectism.
9. Coaches Jacket, McNairy for Run Of The Mill
   While the rest of the world was focused on the ROTM double monks, I was quite taken with this jacket. Described as "a less rugged take on the classic Barbour jacket", I like it for its understated-ness. Color is great for spring and/or fall, too.

Clearly, gray and tan were out in full force on the internet this week (or maybe it was just me?). I've also noticed things took a turn from rugged to finished, (or at least a little more finished). A very, very welcome change and one which is reflected in this week's collection. Way to grow up a bit, interwebs, more of that please. - M

Found after posting: Looks like Bill Cunningham also noticed the gray and tan palette this week on the street. Funny how that works. 

IN CONTEXT | LEFT FIELD NYC IVY CREW SWEATER

Mosey over to Left Field NYC's online store for the complete trinity of sweaters, organic chinos, and some impressive Japanese flannel shirts  –all made in in Queens, NYC.

Winter is officially here and with it comes a great conundrum: needing to be as comfortable in front of the fire place as you are trekking cross the urban tundra. Enter the Left Field NYC crew sweaters. In three basic colorways, (Bark is pictured here), they instantly make me think of the tried and true classics my stylish grandfather swore by –right down to the no-frills stitched label. As Left Field deftly puts it, "think old ivy league, but without the big school letter on the chest."

Made from Canadian Merino wool these will layer up sans-bulk, keeping their wearer warm, ventilated and dry. It's likely you'll wear them with everything and anything so, for this first 'In Context' post, I've paired one with this season's other staples, just in time for wish list season... - M

[IN CONTEXT]

Left NYC Bark Ivy Crew Sweater + Fall/Winter Staples

Left Field Bark Ivy Crew Sweater
Garbstore Mountain Providence Parka
Alden x Context Roy Boot
J.Crew Secret Wash Button Down
Epaulet Slim Walt Trouser
Need Supply Blue Plaid Scarf
Tanner Goods Belt
Stowa Vintage Watch
Archival Clothing Field Bag