SPECIAL EDITION | THE SIG OTHER x GRAHAM WITHERS Pt. II

In the introductory post of this two part series I highlighted the finished product of my collaboration with Graham Withers and, as promised, in part two we'll take a look into the tie making process.

The ties being sold at Graham Withers are hand crafted in NYC by a legend of the tie making circuit who's been in the industry for 40 years and makes ties for the likes of Thom Browne. He's such a secret weapon that when asked to reveal his identity, Paul would only disclose that the craftsman operates out of Chelsea. He hand stitches everything save the slip stitch -  that runs the length of the back of a tie - which is sewn by a Liba machine, (Paul adds "the quality of the Liba machine stitch vs handmade slip stitch is negligible).

The fabric: a worsted English wool tartan in a deep navy and russet stripe. The tipping is 100% cashmere

Before Paul and Dave handed over manufacturing to their best kept secret, they handmade everything themselves at the factory that is the home base for Paul's family business in Long Island City. They're entirely self taught and a few weeks ago, I rode out the factory with them to document their tag team process as they hand made a Zupan tie from start to finish.

Cutting the wool from the pattern.

Paul placing the tipping at the front end of the tie.

Stitching the tipping in place

Paul sews the two ends of the tie together in the workshop at his family's factory

The sewing machine they use was once owned by a handy man who worked with the family business

The front and the back of the tie are joined

Sewing in the tipping

With the point complete, the tie begins to take shape.

Paul (seated) and Dave together in the workshop

Adding the core of the tie and folding the edges in.

The skinny end of the tie is pinned into place

The (nearly) finished product

At this stage the slip stitch is hand sewn, which takes about an hour. The entire process took about two hours, and it was an incredible experience to watch these work together and this product come to life.  See the full range of photos from the day over at my Flickr. Huge thanks to both Paul and Dave for letting me be a fly on the wall while they work their magic. - M

Related Links

• SPECIAL EDITION | THE SIG OTHER x GRAHAM WITHERS Pt. I
• More photos on Flickr
• Purchase The Zupan Tie at Graham Withers

VIDEO | GILTMANUAL MINUTE : PESKO VS. WOOSTER

This week's GiltManual Minute brings us the thrill of a cheeky sartorial dual: menswear legend and street style icon Nick Wooster vs. GiltMan Style Director and street style 'rival', Josh Peskowitz.  Two men. Two arsenals of choice threads.  One steezy survivor.

Well, kind of. In the end (spoil alert!) they shake hands and talk suits with GiltMan creative director, Tyler Thoreson. Still it's a (geeky) joy to see them face off hombre a hombre.  Speaking of facing off, I was especially preoccupied with their differing tie and shoe choices (commented upon after the jump). Both are details that can vastly change and personalize an otherwise standard get-up, and the juxtaposition of these two gents shows that off well. For more of where this came from, check out all the other GiltManual Minute shorts and a few other Pesko x Wooster shots from this week on my Tumblr. - M

Ties: Pesko goes the loud and patterned route, while Wooster rocks an unusual chameleon-like approach.

Shoes: These loafers on Pesko are subtle but but just detailed enough to say 'I'm clearly the man'.

Shoes: Wooster opts to draw more attention to his feet with these spankin' white brogues.

All together now: Pesko's shoe and tie combo lets the paisley do all the talking, while Wooster draws out the lighter tones of his upper half with a bright and snappy footwear option.
All around, some well balanced duds. Truce, gents.

YES PLEASE | GRAHAM WITHERS S/S NECKWEAR

The fellas at Graham Withers Clothing Co. impress yet again with this new line of neckwear, bow ties included, for spring and summer.  As you would expect from Graham Withers, the designs are clean and classic, letting the top notch fabrics shine through unencumbered.  This line is in a seasonally appropriate range of linens, cottons, light flannel, with seersucker making a quick cameo as well. There's a nice balance of patterns and colorways this time too, and all sourced sourced primarily from the US. Each piece is hand made here in NYC, with the (joking) exception of one, which I challenge you to find in the delightfully cheeky product descriptions. This isn't the whole story though, be on the lookout for some pocket squares and a look book in the coming weeks. If this collection is any indication, we're in for a treat. - M

Graham Withers Chesterfield Tie

Graham Withers Kingsley Tie

Graham Withers Boat Keeper Bow Tie (front side)

Graham Withers Boat Keeper Bow Tie (reverse side)

Graham Withers Mongibello Seersucker Tie

Graham Withers DG Bow Tie

NOVELTY | BAND OF OUTSIDERS FLASHER TIE

At first glance, I thought graphics on this tie were little basset hounds. That's neither here nor there - the point is, if you must buy a graphic tie, why not make it this one.  Plus, the little guy seems to be sporting a pretty decent trench.  Classy.  Found it at Stuart & Wright. - M

VIDEO | THE WINDMILL CLUB FALL 2010

Just a charming little video of mischief and merriment.  Also, the cyclist tie which pops up around the 27 second mark confirms that small bikes on slim ties is officially a trend this season.  Nicely done and perfect for a Fall Friday, Brooklyn Bridge and all. Check out The Windmill Club here.  - M
(via The Pursuit Aesthetic)

COMPANY | FIGS TIES, 'THREADS FOR THREADS'

Following in Tom's footsteps, FIGS (short for Fashion Inspired Global Sophistication) promises to donate a school uniform to a child in need with every tie purchase. The program is called Threads for Threads and will begin by supplying uniforms for children in 105 schools in Kenya and Tanzania. 

If that isn't inspiring enough, it doesn't hurt that collection features a variety of pure fabrics, like Italian silk and British wool, simple patterns and custom services. I'm especially impressed with the heathered wool and classic Tartan ties, though I think the bicycle print steals the show.

The company founder, Heather Hasson, had experience with Levis, Gucci and other fashion funded philanthropic endeavors before starting FIGS. Cheers to Mrs. Hasson for an impressive launch, I'm looking forward to seeing how FIGS evolves. - M