Wednesday, November 16, 2011

SPECIAL EDITION | THE SIG OTHER x GRAHAM WITHERS Pt. II


In the introductory post of this two part series I highlighted the finished product of my collaboration with Graham Withers and, as promised, in part two we'll take a look into the tie making process.

The ties being sold at Graham Withers are hand crafted in NYC by a legend of the tie making circuit who's been in the industry for 40 years and makes ties for the likes of Thom Browne. He's such a secret weapon that when asked to reveal his identity, Paul would only disclose that the craftsman operates out of Chelsea. He hand stitches everything save the slip stitch -  that runs the length of the back of a tie - which is sewn by a Liba machine, (Paul adds "the quality of the Liba machine stitch vs handmade slip stitch is negligible).

The fabric: a worsted English wool tartan in a deep navy and russet stripe. The tipping is 100% cashmere


Before Paul and Dave handed over manufacturing to their best kept secret, they handmade everything themselves at the factory that is the home base for Paul's family business in Long Island City. They're entirely self taught and a few weeks ago, I rode out the factory with them to document their tag team process as they hand made a Zupan tie from start to finish.

Cutting the wool from the pattern.
Paul placing the tipping at the front end of the tie.
Stitching the tipping in place
Paul sews the two ends of the tie together in the workshop at his family's factory
The sewing machine they use was once owned by a handy man who worked with the family business
The front and the back of the tie are joined
Sewing in the tipping
With the point complete, the tie begins to take shape.
Paul (seated) and Dave together in the workshop
Adding the core of the tie and folding the edges in.
The skinny end of the tie is pinned into place
The (nearly) finished product
At this stage the slip stitch is hand sewn, which takes about an hour. The entire process took about two hours, and it was an incredible experience to watch these work together and this product come to life.  See the full range of photos from the day over at my Flickr. Huge thanks to both Paul and Dave for letting me be a fly on the wall while they work their magic. - M

Related Links

Sunday, October 30, 2011

SPECIAL EDITION | THE SIG OTHER x GRAHAM WITHERS Pt. I


Last February, Paul and Dave, the gents of Graham Withers, asked me to collaborate with them on a tie for Fall.  Nine months later, I'm excited to announce that we've released our collaborative effort and I could not be more thrilled with the result.

$84 at grahamwithersclothing.com & other stockists in the US

The final product is 2.5 inches wide made from an English wool tartan in a deep navy and russet stripe with cashmere tipping.  The fabrics were sourced from the veritable Tip Top Fabrics in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, (which is nothing short of a candy store). I handed them off to Graham Withers in August who took the reigns in design, production and product photography, (which was executed by the incredibly talented Joshua Woods).

My original intention was to create a piece that was as original as it was distinctive. So, this weekend I ventured to Red Hook, Brooklyn with a patient and willing friend and my Pentax for a test run. 

Pictured: Zupan Tie by Graham Withers, Crosby Button Down by Saturdays NYC
Woodsman Shirt by Woolrich Woolen Mills, Waxed Camo Jacket by Needles
  
This is is the first of two posts, the second of which will document production and take us to the Long Island location where Dave and Paul make tie magic happen. Stay tuned and by all means, I'd love to hear your thoughts and questions. - M

**Editor's Note** I can say with all honesty this has been one of the more rewarding experiences in my life, and it could not have been possible without the support of a great many including: Dave and Paul, for being the amazing partners, friends, and craftsmen that they are, Jonathan Evans who's got a Graham Withers tie of his own, Joshua Woods, Johnny Ridley, Daniel Edmundson, Jake Gallagher, Jahn Hall, the amazing staff at Tip Top Fabrics and my Mother, Patricia Zupan.

Saturday, September 10, 2011

PHOTOS | TWO WEEKS OF DETAILS

At the Tommy Hilfiger S/S 2012 show

Two weeks ago I bought my first real camera in about a decade. It's a Pentax K20D, sold to me by one Mr. Liam Gaws. I am thrilled to have it.  I had been feeling ill equipped for too long - every day seeing things I wanted to capture for this very space, and with no means to do so. Since it arrived, the camera has barely left my face. I'm just getting warmed up again after a five year photo hiatus (I did some artsy fartsy stuff in college) but my life has already benefitted and hopefully this blog will too. Here are some of the menswear focused shots thus far. And you can see all the rest on Flickr. Many thanks to the aforementioned Liam Gaws, the wonderful Justin Chung and the patient Johnny Ridley for their continuing mentorship on this front.  - M

Beer Money
Noah
Julio
Dating bikes
Jess' shirt
Tattoo picnic
Grandpa ties
Porkslap
Hats. Fan.
Gabe
James

Tecateeeeee
Graeme's Tretorns
Jian
Danger.
Allan, designer at Svpply.

Monday, September 5, 2011

SPECIAL EDITION | FOR THE NEW PROFESSIONALS

Tee, Brixton // Shirt, Gitman Vintage // Blazer, Acne // Belt, Epaulet // Bag, Archival //
Jeans, Levi's Made & Crafted // Shoes, Tretorn // Hat, Supreme

I recently took a job with Svpply, a startup in NYC.  I've written about Svpply previously - it's a fantastic company filled with fantastic people. Last week, one of our co-founders, Zach Klein, pointed me to this question on Quora: "What can a man wear in Silicon Valley business circles to be impeccably dressed with out being overly formal?"

While I've never been to Silicon Valley, the underlying anxiety here is something that I've seen nag at men in the creative fields everywhere.  In six years, I've gone from small ad shop, to digital strategy firm, to start-up, all of them companies founded one way or another on the idea of doing something unprecedented. The normal sartorial rules of the workplace are irrelevant here, so what's a guy to do when there's no suit and tie to fall back on?  Taking from my experience of working with whole cast of entrepreneurs/creatives/internet-makers, here are a few things I'd suggest:

1. Fit, Quality, Comfort...and Utility

First of all, no matter what, dressing well is built around fit, quality comfort and (in this case) utility. It is a complete waste of money to buy things that do not fit you, that are not made well that are uncomfortable or serve no functional purpose. Do not buy anything that does not check these boxes, you will regret it. (Also, functional does not mean sports/workout gear. Mesh shorts, like sweat bands, are only considered functional in the gym).

2. Invest (really invest) in a bag.
This is the most important item you own - you use it every single day so it needs to be as useful and durable as possible. Beware the messenger bag. They can be sloppy and bad for your back. Go with a tote or an informal briefcase.  A good backpack is completely acceptable as long as you cannot imagine a high school kid wearing it.
 

Suggestions: J.W. Hulme, Archival (above), Filson, Kelty, Skinny Vinny, Billy Kirk, Wm. J Mills & Co

3. Three pairs of shoes will go a long, long way.
One pair canvas, one pair leather and one pair boots. Formal shoes aren't a must, but no matter what, each pair should look as good with jeans and a T-shirt as they do with chinos and a blazer.

Canvas: Tretorn (above), Converse, Zuriick, Vans // Leather: Epaulet, Alden, Common Projects // Boots: Wolverine, Red Wing, L.L Bean

4. One blazer. Uno. Ichi. Eins.
For those rarest of occasions, or if you feel like being spiffy, just one will do. Navy or grey but I advise against black as it can be too formal. I'd say an unstructured blazer (like above) will get you far.

Suggestions: Oliver Spencer, Gant, J.Crew, Steven Alan, General Assembly, Acne (above)

5. Graduate from (just) T-shirts.
Basic tees are important. About ten plain shirts in a combination of black, white and gray should do it. On top of that, it is ok to keep your old ones with sports teams or bands on them - that's charming and cool in a kind of Street way, but do supplement with about five button downs.  I suggest a range - a couple solids, a couple patterns, in varying weights and at least one white.

Suggestions: Gant, Gitman Brothers Vintage, WWM, Thom Browne, Ralph Lauren

6. Half of your pants collection should be exceptionally high quality.

Pants get the biggest beating. Half of them should be able to last through the apocalypse and fit slim (i.e. do not puddle around your ankles or sag in the butt). Pants that look good and last for years are worth every penny. Plus, everyone loves a guy in five year old jeans. Means he's crafty and dedicated.

Denim: Tellason, Raleigh, APC, Levi's (above), Nudie, Rogue Territory // Non-Denim: Bonobos, Epaulet, Outlier, Dockers

7.  Hang on to your North Face, but have at least two other options.

In my experience entrepreneurs tend to be outdoors-men, (aspiring or otherwise), so waterproof/outdoorsy jackets are fine and necessary.  That said, make sure you have others that are not made for mountain scaling as you do not need to scale mountains while in the office.

Outdoorsy: for when you need to be all active outside.  Like this one.
Light jacket: not denim and can fit a sweater under it. Like this one.
Heavy jacket: should keep you warm. I suggest wool. Like this one or this one.

    8. Rule of four layers
    Thinking in layers helps you understand how many pieces you need/want. The idea is you need (roughly) one layer for Summer, two for Spring, three for Fall, four for Winter.  Like so:
    One Shirt (Tee or button down) = Summer
    Tee + (Button down or jacket) = Spring
    Tee + Button down + (Jacket or Sweater) = Fall
    Tee + Button down + Sweater + Jacket  =  Winter
    With ten basic tees, five button downs, three or four sweaters and three jackets you can start to see how your options multiply. (Bonus points if you write a program that will create those combinations for you).

    Tips on sweaters: go with merino wool, cashmere, cotton or a blend.  No synthetics - they make you sweaty and don't actually keep you warm. I like ones like this and this.  For casual, hoodies are good perfectly acceptable. Like this one.


    9. Ties
    Not a must, but they make it easy to look slightly more dressed up and they're just fun. I'm actually partial to the tie and sneaker look, these days.

    Suggestions: Graham Withers, The Hill-Side, The Windmill Club, Pierrepont Hicks, Alexander Olch

    10. "Every day, wear something that says something about who you are"- Put This On
    Most importantly, have something that lends character and that you love wearing. Examples I know and love include big watches, bow ties, blue hoodies, red belts, and bad ass hats. Whatever it is, find that thing, big or small, and wear the hell out of it. The last thing we need is a sea of 'creative professional' clones wandering the earth. Plus, when you get all famous for building the internet, we've got to have something endearing make fun of you for.

    **Editor's note**
    This post is inspired entirely by the gentlemen I've had the great pleasure of working with.  They're my friends and comrades and I respect them deeply no matter what they wear. They could all show up
    to work in garbage bags and I'd still congratulate them on being the talented men that they are. And that's the truth.

    Saturday, July 2, 2011

    COLLECTION | BARBOUR x TO KI TO A/W '11

    Barbour x To Ki To.  Is there really anything more to say?








    Well, no. But humor me: Usually I'm pretty persnickety about covering things I've never seen in person, but there are some exceptions, and this collaboration is always one of them. Barbour and Japanese designer Tokihito both have impeccable track records and together they've produced an impressive collection for several seasons now.  The functional details and architectural nature of the collaboration give way to a well executed, sophisticated blend of modern and traditional, putting each piece in a category of Caborn-like artistry. Not a bad category to be in.

    I'm particularly fond of the half placket front closures and oversized hoods featured this season. Beautiful yet useful as can be – not a bad choice for urbanites who struggle to find outerwear that does it's job without making one look like a banker or detracting from what's beneath.  If anything, a Barbour x To Ki To will likely up-stage anything else you could possibly be wearing, but that's really not a something I'd consider a problem. 


    The entire collection is on pre-order at Number Six, where you will also find more images and details of each piece. Sincere apologies in advance for any brain or heart spasms that might result.  -  M

    // Barbour x To Ki To at Number Six

    Thursday, June 30, 2011

    COLLECTION | NUDIE JEANS A/W 2011


    Previous to this year, I was not extremely familiar with Nudie, a Swedish label founded in 2001. I knew the brand for for it's excellent reputation in men's denim, perpetuated by a loyal and vocal male customer base, and it's not so great reputation for rather amateurish apparel.  Fast forward to last month when I had the pleasure of visiting the Nudie Showroom in Chelsea, an experience that left me thoroughly impressed by Nudie's mature, well-rounded, and beautifully made A/W '11 collection.



    Comprised of three distinct lines differentiated by palette and fabrics, the collection is focused around a solid set of basics, with some distinctive, yet subdued pieces peppered throughout. The brighter more transitional side of the collection, in cottons and japanese linens, plays nicely with the heavier knits and denims and all is tied together with a nod to workwear inspired silouhettes.




    Laid out across racks and tables, the collection's balance of textures, weights and materials made the showroom feel a bit like closet of a well groomed musician or designer: built carefully over time, with attention to quality and comfort, and a touch of playfulness, in the form of a beautiful leather bomber, from the crazier days.






















    I was particularly struck by the shirting, featured here. For me, the stand out pieces were those in Japanese fabrics as well as the amazing heavy wash (read: stone washed!) denim button down (pictured above). Honestly, it's so beautiful and soft in person, it made me realize a new-found appreciation for a once forgotten 90's treatment.



    All in all, Nudie has stepped up their game with this thoughtfully considered, well made collection that lives up to their reputation in the denim category. Nudie is clearly in a process of reinvention, and I'm excited to see how it evolves in the coming seasons. Special thanks to goes to Ruari Mahon for making the showroom visit a complete joy, and Johnny Ridley for lending me his camera and editing skills. - M 

    //nudiejeans.com