IN CONTEXT | MARK MCNAIRY TWO TONE SADDLE SHOE IN NAVY

If Menswear had its own Chinese new year style calendar (now there's an idea...), this would most definitely be The Year of the McNairy.  After garnering notoriety as the respected lead creative director of classic American label J.Press, the past couple of years have seen Mark McNairy collaborate with some of the most prominent brands in the industry such as Engineered Garments, Bass, and Pro-Keds. Most recently he's recently taken the helm as creative director of Woolrich Woolen Mills.

These Two-Tone saddles are hardly new - for that you should check his Kilte Loafers for Bass Weejun - but they've have had quite a run as one of this year's most recognizable models. Made for his own line New Amsterdam, these suede saddles are crafted in Northamptonshire, England, using traditional American and British cobbling techniques. Typical to McNairy, the attention to detail is fastidious resulting in a top quality shoe. Plus, while they look substantial they're surprisingly light and supple.

Despite their Internet fame, I've barely seen these on the street and when I have it's been in a pretty standard fashion, (with a navy suit or rolled chino).  As it's spring-ish now, I've been fixated with the idea of seeing them with shorts, (oh, c'mon live a little!), and threw together the below as a bit of insipiration in that vien. Purchase the shoe at MarkMcnairy.com (US) or End Clothing (UK) and if you're a lady, they're available (in store only) at Epaulet in Manhattan. - M

[IN CONTEXT]

Mark McNairy Two-Tone Saddle Loafer for a Rainy Spring

Mark McNairy Two-Tone Saddle in Navy
Our Legacy Chambray Shorts
Folk Clothing Light Rain Mac
APC Short Sleeve Madras Shirt
Left Field Deadstock Crossgrain Sweatshirt
APC Woven Belt
Illestiva Lennox Tortoise Frames (removeable shades)

Previously [In Context]  :
Left Field NYC Ivy Crew Sweater
Nike Air Royal Mid QS 'Workboot' Sneaker
Mr. Hare Mailer Loafer

VIDEO | JAKE DAVIS TEST SHOTS | GLENN O'BRIEN

It's a rainy Sunday and I forgot to post this on Friday. Even though it's all over the internet and you've probably already seen it, it's O'Brien. You can always stand to watch it another time. All I really need to say about this is: Jake Davis + Glenn O'Brien + the lining on that coat = there is much to appreciate here. I also recommend checking out Mr. O'Brien's latest book How to Be a Man, published by the one and only Rizzoli New York. - M

VIDEO | GANT RUGGER PRE-FALL 2011

Last week I had the pleasure of meeting Christian Bastin, lead designer of Gant Rugger as well as Douglas Geller, Gant's head of marketing, at Epaulet's Orchard Street shop. Over a delicious Cheerwine-induced buzz, we discussed karaoke, the joys of a Porkslap IPA and their excitement over releasing this pre-fall video.  After seeing it today, I can echo their love for it.  Inspired by 50's era etiquette videos, the tongue-in-cheek narrative (from which we'll all have our favorite quote) and nostalgic 'crackle-pop' cinematic style charmingly tease out the playfulness of the collection, all while framing the kind of traditional beauty that Gant Rugger embodies.

Speaking of beauty, I'm also taking this opportunity to feature the Gant Rugger Cricket Sweater which makes cameos in the look book and the above video.

I had the chance to meet this notable item in person at Epaulet and while it's lovely to behold, the true selling point is how buttery soft it is. The sweater is made from a (mostly cottton) cotton/acrylic/poly blend, and it is - I can't stress this enough - one of the most satisfyingly plush items of clothing I've ever come into contact with.

Sure, it'll be many-a-moon till the weather gets colder, but the weight and feel of this sweather makes it a perfect option for when the temperature dips in the spring and it's sure to fit right in with your layers in the fall. So, as the video says, use your smarts to look smart, gents and don't pass this one up. - M

//gant.com
//epauletshop.com

Q & A | SKINNY VINNY

The Sal

A new entrant to the ever rapidly growing pool of bag makers, is Brooklyn based designer Vincent Lai, who's already earning his keep in the game with his brand, Skinny Vinny. Vincent reached out to me with his spring collection and I jumped at the chance to feature the line. It's not every day that a freshman effort offers such a nicely curated, unified and well crafted range. From the simple City Slicker Tote to The Sal, a convertible backpack/carry-all, each model remains understated while answering to a distinct functional need. My favorite is the Rowan, soon to be available in the fall, a backpack that looks easy-breezy but is made of heavy duty canvas and contains plenty of pockets for everything you might need in the urban wilderness - from pocket knife to laptop.

The Rowan
Submit pre-order inquiries here

Covering the bags was a no brainer but I wanted to scratch the surface a bit on this emerging designer, and was lucky enough that Vincent was willing to answer a few questions about himself, the brand and the products. I urge you to take a peak at the line and get to know the brand; I have a feeling, and not just because of my flagrant Brooklyn pride, it'll be one to watch. - M

The Sig Other: First, could you tell us a little bit about yourself?
Vincent Lai: I was born and raised in Brooklyn, NY, So a Brooklynite to the core. I come from a family of sewers and makers in the garment industry and grew up in and around factories. For college, I attended Carnegie Mellon University and graduated with an Industrial Design Degree in 2006.

TSO: So how did Skinny Vinny come to be?
After graduating from college, I worked for a design consultancy in Lower Manhattan, Soho area. After about a year, I decided that it was time for a change. I wanted to combine my product design education with the soft goods and pattern-making knowledge I gained growing up in a garment factory. As a child, I would sometimes help my mother at her job in a garment factory in Brooklyn. I would cut loose threads, do some sewing, ironing, or even just sweep the floor. As I was looking for a new job, I had some sketches and ideas for bags. I made some samples just to get it out of my head. I sent some photos to my friends and out of the blue, a blog picked it up and then another blog and another. I started to get some orders and I thought “hmm… maybe, I can do this for a living?” I stopped my job search, and been doing Skinny Vinny ever since.

Does the brand have a mission or perspective?
We strive to create straight-forward, no-fuss products you can use everyday. We give special and careful attention to craft and quality. Since all our products are made in limited quantities by my small family of artisans and myself, individual variation and that special level of human touch is guaranteed.

The City Slicker Tote

What is your design approach?
I always find myself thinking about new bags, new shapes and new ways of carrying things. I can be out with friends and I find myself drifting off thinking about it. I love people watching, watching how one interacts or stumble with their bags is a huge source of inspiration for me. How the bag falls or hugs the body, or what problems they seem to have with their bags is very helpful to my process. Through watching, I usually have a direction and sketching helps me find the right shape and proportions. I sometimes make quick and fast muslin samples just to test out the proportions and usability. Then I jump on my computer to refine the design and make the tech packs. I won’t really know if the bag is successful or not until I get a final working sample. After I give the "okay" for a new design, we make the production in small batches. I number each one and I keep a log of where each bag is going, whether they're are going to a store or to a person. I love keeping things personal like that.

What are your thoughts on the current collection?
Our collection is usually not seasonal, we usually have injections where we introduce a new product here and there. It's easier to manage that way since we are a small brand and it's usually just me.  For the Spring season, The Sal convertible bag is my favorite. Just the functionality of it and the versatility is quite successful in my opinion. It has been quite popular.

The Sal, in all its multi-functional glory

Could you elaborate on the materials you use?
Our products have been predominantly cotton. Mostly cotton canvas and a few leather detailing here and there. We like using natural fibers. However, we are defiantly going to be looking into some tech fabrics. There's a lot of possibilities of new types of bags we can create with those kinds of materials.

What are your future plans for Skinny Vinny?
Currently, I'm all booked up for the next 6 months! I would love a vacation, but I can't take one as of yet. We have orders to make and fulfill for the Fall. However, we will be working with some stores releasing new styles exclusive to their store and the city they're located in. There's a store in Hong Kong that I'm really excited to collaborate with. I'm always looking to collaborate with people, weather in the design industry or not, the experience will help me grow as a person and as a designer.

The Rowan

// skinny-vinny.com
// skinny-vinny shop

YES, PLEASE | FILSON ITALIA BLACK LABEL S/S OUTERWEAR

From left to right, FIlson Italia Blacklabel S/S 2011 Workwear Jacket and Overhead Coat.
All photos courtesy of Oi Polloi.

The American x Italian love affair continues with Filson's limited line of Italian S/S workwear. Filson introduced the Italia collection in 2009 and this season it's reached new heights, at least in my eyes. With (slightly) slimmer cuts, and distinctive accents, the line takes all of the brand's signature American ruggedness and refines it with an Italian eye for design and details, (just behold all those beautifully situated pockets). Try as I might, I can't seem to find too much background on these gems, (perhaps they've been overshadowed by all the hullabaloo around Filson's Japanese Red Label line), but suffice it to say, if seasons past are any indication, the uniqueness and craftsmanship of these pieces will make them worth the money, (read: not cheap, but if you've got the cash, by all means be my guest).

Filson Italia Black Label Workwear Jacket

Filson Italia Black Label Overhead Coat

This line is not (easily) available in the United States, but fortunately for us, our friends at Oi Polloi have them in stock, (along with a few other items in the Italia collection), and they've got A+ US shipping standards. Of course, if you're one of those lucky (and wildly wealthy) blokes from across the pond, then this post might've just made Spring. Be sure to see many more detail shots after the jump and shop Filson Italia here. - M

// Oi Polloi
// Filson (USA)

YES, PLEASE | ILLESTEVA EYEWEAR

Leonard, in Half tortoise

Although April showers are aplenty this spring, it's that time of year again to begin sunglasses hunting.  Enter, Illesteva a fairly new brand in the eyewear scene but one that has entered with a warm welcome and to many accolades. In my eyes, rightfully so. Since the introduction of their first line in 2009, founders Daniel Silberman and Jus Ske have come through with classic silhouettes in a range of high quality and distinctive materials ranging from bamboo and buffalo horn to titanium and acetate.   All the pieces are designed stateside by the New York based duo and hand made in Germany and Italy.

I'm a fan of the Leonard model (above), and now that round framed glasses are a big to-do these days, it's no wonder they're becoming more and more difficult to find as Summer draws nearer.  Although the Leonard is the stand out, the whole, versatile range is something to consider if you're looking for an alternative to the Persol/Ray Ban/Oliver Peoples staples. I've had several owners tell me they're the best pair they've ever bought, and I can vouch for their attractiveness in person as well - the photos, as lovely as they are, actually don't do these pieces justice. Plus, with a price point between $160 - $225 they'll afford you a quality pair of sunglasses without completely breaking the bank.  See more models after the jump and find where to buy online and off, here.  - M

// Illesteva.com

Leonard, in Half Tortoise

ASSORTED | POCKET KNIVES

In the past weeks, most likely due to the popularity of Every Day Carry, I was inspired to do some digging in the way of pocket knives.  Prior to this search I had developed a general philosophy that a man's pocket knife reveals more about a him than almost anything else he owns. Whether or not he carries it with him regularly, which I absolutely think he should, I always find it fascinating how much these handy tools reflect their owners, much like a pet might.

Perhaps not surprisingly then, I came to realize that one's search for the perfect knife demands a fairly intensive consideration process. First, there are the various features the piece, (how many blades? does it house a hidden tooth pic? A bottle opener? or is it one simple blade?), the design and materials, (classic or modern? carbon or stainless? wood or bone?) and finally the size, (fit to slay a rhino or an apple?).

As you might expect, I uncovered a huge array of options but in the end I narrowed my search to the classic, small sized, hand crafted variety which so artfully blend materials, design and functionality. I've had quite the time researching this post, and in the process developed a great appreciation for these functional, illusive little artifacts. Dwelling on pretty cutlery has been a lovely way to spend a Sunday afternoon and I hope you enjoy the selection below as much as I did collecting it.  - M