Thursday, June 30, 2011
Previous to this year, I was not extremely familiar with Nudie, a Swedish label founded in 2001. I knew the brand for for it's excellent reputation in men's denim, perpetuated by a loyal and vocal male customer base, and it's not so great reputation for rather amateurish apparel. Fast forward to last month when I had the pleasure of visiting the Nudie Showroom in Chelsea, an experience that left me thoroughly impressed by Nudie's mature, well-rounded, and beautifully made A/W '11 collection.
Comprised of three distinct lines differentiated by palette and fabrics, the collection is focused around a solid set of basics, with some distinctive, yet subdued pieces peppered throughout. The brighter more transitional side of the collection, in cottons and japanese linens, plays nicely with the heavier knits and denims and all is tied together with a nod to workwear inspired silouhettes.
Laid out across racks and tables, the collection's balance of textures, weights and materials made the showroom feel a bit like closet of a well groomed musician or designer: built carefully over time, with attention to quality and comfort, and a touch of playfulness, in the form of a beautiful leather bomber, from the crazier days.
I was particularly struck by the shirting, featured here. For me, the stand out pieces were those in Japanese fabrics as well as the amazing heavy wash (read: stone washed!) denim button down (pictured above). Honestly, it's so beautiful and soft in person, it made me realize a new-found appreciation for a once forgotten 90's treatment.
All in all, Nudie has stepped up their game with this thoughtfully considered, well made collection that lives up to their reputation in the denim category. Nudie is clearly in a process of reinvention, and I'm excited to see how it evolves in the coming seasons. Special thanks to goes to Ruari Mahon for making the showroom visit a complete joy, and Johnny Ridley for lending me his camera and editing skills. - M